Pilfered this method from various "guides". Seemed to be the easiest to do in the driveway on a nice day
1) Jack up the rear of the car and put the jack stands under the frame not the DeDion tubes. Wheels off.
Loosen the hub bolt, then release the parking brake and put in neutral.
2) X-frame bolt, is E18 bolt. If necessary wrap a wet rag around the rubber bushing to protect it and use a torch on the 18 mm nut.
In a pinch you can use a 6 point if you don't have a E18 socket (I don't). I think it was a 14mm. I didn't detach the shock absorber.
3) To get the drive shaft out of the bearing housing, put a trolley jack under the engine bell housing and jack up the engine a bit to
compress the engine mounts and give you just enough clearance. It is very tight but possible.
Push the driveshaft towards the centre of the car and wiggle the end of the shaft out right by the curve in the hub backing support.
4) No need to lever the other end of the shaft out of the transmission. I'm of the school to leave as much in place as you can.
Pry off the old reluctor ring and use a Dremel tool grinder to the body of the driveshaft where the reluctor ring goes.
5) You can try the heat method if you want. I didn’t want to fry my CV joint boots. Also worried about getting it part way on
and then having it cool and lock in place. I used a brass drift to get the new one on. And some judicious grinding of the body
with the Dremel.
6) Clean the ABS sensor with some brake cleaner (I forgot to do this). Paint the CV joint body where you ground
back to clean metal.
7) Get the driveshaft back into the bearing housing and lower the trolley jack, you can now use it to lift the DeDion tube so you
can reassemble the X-frame. I had to get the LHS of the car OFF the jack stand (at the time I was going to do both sides
but ran out of time) and back on terra firma so that the X-frame bolt would line up easily.
8) Axle nut back on and torqued! (put on the hand brake). Wheels back on etc.
To jest chyba najlepszy opis. Caly proces wymiany pierscienia jest prosty, chociaz wydaje sie ze tym sposobem nie da sie wyciagnac poloski - trzeba troche "pomoc" rozpierajac DeDion kawalkiem belki. Trzeba takze dobrze oczyscic z rdzy przed zalozeniem nowego pierscienia. Aby wcisnac pierscien uzylem kawalka rurki PVC (nie moze to byc zbyt ciasno). Warto takze przed zalozeniem pomalowac. Cala wymiana zajela mi ok 0.5 godziny.
Pierscienie sprowadzilem gdzies z Anglii za $35 (za dwa)
1) Jack up the rear of the car and put the jack stands under the frame not the DeDion tubes. Wheels off.
Loosen the hub bolt, then release the parking brake and put in neutral.
2) X-frame bolt, is E18 bolt. If necessary wrap a wet rag around the rubber bushing to protect it and use a torch on the 18 mm nut.
In a pinch you can use a 6 point if you don't have a E18 socket (I don't). I think it was a 14mm. I didn't detach the shock absorber.
3) To get the drive shaft out of the bearing housing, put a trolley jack under the engine bell housing and jack up the engine a bit to
compress the engine mounts and give you just enough clearance. It is very tight but possible.
Push the driveshaft towards the centre of the car and wiggle the end of the shaft out right by the curve in the hub backing support.
4) No need to lever the other end of the shaft out of the transmission. I'm of the school to leave as much in place as you can.
Pry off the old reluctor ring and use a Dremel tool grinder to the body of the driveshaft where the reluctor ring goes.
5) You can try the heat method if you want. I didn’t want to fry my CV joint boots. Also worried about getting it part way on
and then having it cool and lock in place. I used a brass drift to get the new one on. And some judicious grinding of the body
with the Dremel.
6) Clean the ABS sensor with some brake cleaner (I forgot to do this). Paint the CV joint body where you ground
back to clean metal.
7) Get the driveshaft back into the bearing housing and lower the trolley jack, you can now use it to lift the DeDion tube so you
can reassemble the X-frame. I had to get the LHS of the car OFF the jack stand (at the time I was going to do both sides
but ran out of time) and back on terra firma so that the X-frame bolt would line up easily.
8) Axle nut back on and torqued! (put on the hand brake). Wheels back on etc.
To jest chyba najlepszy opis. Caly proces wymiany pierscienia jest prosty, chociaz wydaje sie ze tym sposobem nie da sie wyciagnac poloski - trzeba troche "pomoc" rozpierajac DeDion kawalkiem belki. Trzeba takze dobrze oczyscic z rdzy przed zalozeniem nowego pierscienia. Aby wcisnac pierscien uzylem kawalka rurki PVC (nie moze to byc zbyt ciasno). Warto takze przed zalozeniem pomalowac. Cala wymiana zajela mi ok 0.5 godziny.
Pierscienie sprowadzilem gdzies z Anglii za $35 (za dwa)
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